Fruit Acid Peeling – AHA and BHA

What are fruit acids?

Fruit acids refer to natural acids found in plants and especially in their fruits. Many fruit acids belong to the α hydroxy acids, which has given them the name AHA acids. The most common cosmetic fruit acids are glycolic acid and lactic acid, others are citric acid, malic acid and salicylic acid.

How does the skin react when it ages?

From the age of 30, the skin becomes increasingly difficult to remove. As a result, the skin looks increasingly dull and grey and skin impurities can be formed.

👍 What can fruit acids do?

Fruit acids loosen up the bond between the individual horn cells. Dead horn cells can thus be better repelled. The only drawback is that the skin’s epidermis becomes thinner and thus more sensitive to the sun. The application of a sun cream with a high sun protection factor is necessary even in cloudy weather. The diluted epidermis also sends a signal downwards and stimulates the skin to form new cells in the basal layer.

👎 Disadvantages of Fruit Acids

  1. Strong irritation of the skin by unsuitable products, so that no positive effect is caused. Therefore it’s important to buy a good product in the right concentration.
  2. Scars can form and pigment disturbances result from too high concentration or too long exposure times.

What to pay attention to when using fruit acid peeling?

  • For sensitive skin, start with a salicylic acid peeling as it’s well tolerated by all skin types.
  • Skin soothing ingredients should also be included in the peeling, such as allantoin. If this isn’t the case, apply a good moisturizer after the peeling.

How do I use a fruit acid peeling?

  • Cleaning: Clean face well with water and toner before treatment.  
  • Frequency of use: Start with peeling every third day, with good tolerance increase to every second day. If this is done without irritation, use the fruit acid peeling every day.
  • Use sun cream with a high sun protection factor even in cloudy weather.

Which fruit acids help with Melasma?

The two fruit acids glycolic acid and salicylic acid help with pigment spots, but the effect is doubted by many experts.


Glycolic Acid

Rosemary contains a lot of glycolic acid. Source: Wikipedia

What is glykolic acid?

Glycolic acid is a natural acid found for example in unripe grapes, rosemary and sugar beet, which is why it’s classified as a fruit acid.

How does glycolic acid work ?

  • Dead skin cells are repelled. The glycolic acid peels the skin.
    💫 It appears fresher.
  • Positive influence on pigmentation, because the superficial pigmentations are removed.
  • Dry skin is moistened.

For which skin type is glycolic acid suitable?

Glycolic acid is suitable for mature, dry skin that doesn’t react too sensitively because glycolic acid penetrates deeper into the skin than salicylic acid. This can lead to more severe skin irritations.

What should I watch out for when treating with glycolic acid peeling?

  • High concentrations of more than 5%, otherwise the glycolic acid does not work.
  • Low pH value of the product, which is unfortunately more difficult to control.
  • Slowly increase the intervals between applications, as glycolic acid can have an irritating effect on the skin.
  • The skin becomes more sensitive to the sun and protection with a sun cream becomes more important because the top layer of skin has become thinner due to the removal of dead skin cells.

❌ Safety Recommendations

For peelings with glycolic acid over 30%, be sure to consult a medical cosmetician or doctor.


🛒 Where can I buy Glycolic Acid Peeling?

👉 (Amazon) Glycolix Elite Glycolic Acid Exfoliating Treatment Pads, 60 Count 💫 10%, 15%, 20% concentrations of glycolic acid available in this peeling, I would start with 10% and increase maybe to 15%


Salicylic Acid

The fruit acid salicylic acid is obtained from willow bark. Source: Wikipedia

For which skin type is salicylic acid suitable?

Suitable for oily, sensitive skin prone to pimples, because tudies show that salicylic acid is very suitable for acne plagued skin.vSalicylic acid penetrates deep into the pores because it’s fat-soluble and is known to be present in our pores as tallow (fat).

❌ In the case of an allergic reaction to aspirin, treatment with salicylic acid is not recommended, as aspirin is a synthetic form of willow bark.

When choosing salicylic acid peeling, what should I pay attention to?

  • The concentration of salicylic acid should be at least 1% to 2% for it to work.
  • pH value between 3 and 5. If the pH value is below 3, the skin is irritated too much.


Where can I buy a salicylic acid peeling? 🛒

👉(Amazon) Paulas Choice–SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid Salicylic Acid Exfoliant

  • Product with 2% salicylic acid
  • pH value between 3.2 – 3.8 as recommended
  • The peeling doesn’t have to be washed off.

Sources:
Glykolsäure – Dr. Jetske Ultee Das Geheimnis des Peelens: Säuren wie Glykolsäure oder Salicylsäure Salicylsäure: Peeling für die Haut
Glycolic acid – Wikipedia
Fruit acid – Wikipedia
Säuren für die Haut – naturalbeauty.de